Jessica Smith
A bit like a magic portal, a ten-minute walk through a lush, densely-ferned nature trail transports you back in time, into the midst of the arrival of Voyageurs from the western interior.
It is a grand welcome: Cannons fire and the air is filled with the lilting sound of bagpipe music, as the proprietor of the Northwest Company’s Fort William and the leading Voyager raising glasses of wine in toast.
Just one of many historical re-enactments that occur several times each day at Thunder Bay’s Old Fort William’s Historical Park, the guides make history come vividly and engagingly alive. The 42-building, 25-acre park depicts the midway transshipment point of the 1800s where Voyageurs arrived with furs from the western part of the country and from Montreal carrying trade goods.
The original fort owned by the Northwest Company during the time depicted, is about nine miles further up the Kaministiqua River, and was named for William McGillivray, the fort’s chief director from 1804 to 1821. While the annual Great Canadian Rendezvous which wrapped up last week offered large-scale re-enactments of key moments in the fur trade era history, visitors can always take in regular re-enactments of Fort life from 10 am to 5 pm (Thunder Bay time), any day of the week up until mid-October.
Resplendent in the top hats and waist coats that typify the gentlemen’s finery, the brilliant blousons of the Voyageurs, and traditional Aboriginal costumes, the staff appear to relish their roles. Whether staging a scene, showing visitors around the buildings or farm area, or asking for a hand with baking or fence-building, they stay firmly in character. (Even during a recent visit earlier this month, in sweltering 30°plus temperatures, the ‘gentlemen’ maintained poise despite their wool coats and high-necked cravats.)
“A lot of people make the assumption that [summer staff members] are actually students of theatre or history,” said the Fort’s communications officer Marty Mascarin. “Our students’ fields of study are quite varied and [training in] history or theatre is not stipulations we make.” What the Fort really looks for in its heritage staff is exemplary interpersonal skills, enthusiasm, willingness to learn and adaptability, he said.
“Some of our students multi-task, depending on the events we stage. One day, they could be Simon Fraser, who was an explorer with the Company, and the next William McGillivray who was chief director of Fort William and was its namesake. They have to learn all of that [history].”
Some of the Fort life depicted at the park includes Dr. John McLoughlin’s apothecary (where some disturbing 1800s medical procedures and instruments are enthusiastically described by the doctor himself), the Great Hall where Fort management stay, kitchen and bakery where workers are busy preparing for the arrival of NW Co. managers, Indian shop where local Aboriginals trade furs for goods, various shops, accommodations of the clerks and tradesmen, the Voyageur encampment, the Native Village where the campfire is burning and the teepees are filled with the scent of Spruce boughs, and the garden where workers are happy to demonstrate growing tips.
At any time during the day, artisans are hard at work in the trades square area, crafting birch bark canoes and a wide variety of items made from leather, wood, metal such as lanterns, iron pokers, and leather mitts and mukluks. While the canoes are made on consignment, other items are sold through Global Experience at the Fort’s gift store in the visitor centre and at Intercity Mall, said Mascarin.
The historical park’s restaurant – which serves traditional fare such as fried Pickerel fillets, pea soup and ‘bangers and mash’ – has re-opened this year after closing a few years ago due when the rising Kam River caused flood damage. (The Fort is working with the province in an $8 million flood mitigation effort which includes engineering studies aimed at identifying possible options to protect the site from future flooding, said Mascarin.)
The Fort’s farm has also re-opened following the tragic accident earlier this summer when a wagon team of draft horses collided with a group of children on a school field trip, resulting in the death of a four-year-old girl.
Smaller animals such as chicken and sheep can still be seen, but the larger animals remain off-site for the time being, said Mascarin. “I think everyone would like to safely see the animals returned, but it is dependent on a review of operations and safety procedures.”
Funded by the Ontario Ministry of Tourism, the Fort continues to work to promote regional tourism partnerships such as the one forged with the Anishnawbe First Nation (its Anishnawbe Keeshigun kicked off this year’s Great Canadian Rendezvous). It is also promoting ‘stay at home’ vacations in acknowledgment of the economic struggles felt by many in the region. As part of that effort, the Fort has expanded its offering during the 10-day Rendezvous by adding RV and tent camping packages, concerts, theatre productions and other events at its modern facilities.
“It has been a great experiment for us,” said Mascarin. “Where we go with it next year will depend on [this year’s attendance] results and also annual funding.”
For Atikokanites considering a ‘staycation’ this summer or simply a day trip with the kids, the Fort’s Historical Park may be a delightful way to learn about the fur traders who travelled our very own waterways and helped to open the country.
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